Patterns for a Circular Sock Machine

I will add patterns here from time to time. Let's start with a 3 & 1 Mock Rib that works well for me.


Basic 3&1 Cuff-Down Sock Pattern
with Mock Rib for a Circular Sock Knitting Machine

Materials:      Waste yarn
                      Sock yarn
                      Latch hook
                      Weights (V-hook, fork weights 2 or 3)
                      Pick tool

For a 3/1 Rib:  Prepare a 60-slot cylinder by placing 3 needles in & omitting the 4th all the way around.

·      • Set the tension at about 10 clicks from the bottom.
·      • Place the yarn carrier with the carrier hole by the right ½ mark.
·      • Insert a cast-on sack in the center of the cylinder and hang the loops on every other needle.
·      Thread waste yarn, dropping the tail in front of the right ½ mark. Make sure all the needle latches are open.
·      • When you can no longer place any cast-on sack loops, pull down on the cast-on sack with your left hand and start cranking around slowly until the remaining needles are up and ready to accept the remaining cast-on sack loops.
·      Install the buckle and hang the stem weight
·      Crank about 10 rounds. When all of the needles are threaded securely, stop at the right 1/2 mark.
·      Clip waste yarn 3” above the yarn carrier and remove the waste yarn from the mast. 
·      Thread the sock yarn, dropping a 6” tail inside the tube just before the ½ mark. Slip the waste yarn tail between the carrier and the needles and drop it into the cylinder one needle after the ½ mark. (That needle will have both waste and sock yarn on it.)
·      Knit 1 row and adjust your tension and check that all stitches have latched.
·      Set row counter to 0 and crank 24 rows.

·      Hang the Hem: Remove all the weight and hang hem.
·       Knit 65 rounds for leg.
•     Insert the missing needles and lift a stitch on to each new needle.
·      Crank 7 rows for the ankle. Stop the carrier in the front.
The Heel: Work Debs Fast and Easy Heel or Toe for the CSM
Decreases ­–
Lift the back needles up between the right and left ½ marks so that the butt of each needle is against the cylinder spring. Crank around to the back and listen for the last little click.

1.    Place the yarn in the take up wire.
2.    Set the V-hook (or fork weights) in the outside of the fabric about ¾ of an inch below the cylinder rim.
3.    Set stem weights on the V-hook.
4.    Raise 1 needle on the right side.
5.    Crank clockwise past the left ½ mark until you hear the last click, stopping at the center back.
6.    Raise 1 needle on the left side.
7.    Crank counter clockwise past the right ½ mark until you hear the last click to the center back.
8.    Continue #s 4 - 7 until you should raise left front target needle.

Increases – (reposition V-hook and fork weights as needed.)
9.    Don’t raise that needle. Instead lower the first raised needle on the right, but not so far that it closes the latch. Crank counter clockwise to the back until you hear the last click.
10. Lower the first needle on left side and crank clockwise to the back.
11. Continue alternating 10 & 11 until you reach the raised needle behind the ½ mark on the right side.
12. Crank to the front of the machine, and push down all needles, remove yarn from the take-up wire, and check that all latches are open. Start knitting around slowly.

• Crank between 45 & 55 rows for the foot.

The Toe:
1.    Stop the yarn carrier in front.
2.    Follow steps for The Heel above #1- 12.
3.    Push down all the needles and remove the take-up wire. Crank the yarn carrier until it is above the right ½ mark.
4.    Snip the yarn by the cone, leaving an 18” tail. Pull the tail through the yarn carrier and place it in the cylinder in the path it would travel if it were knitting.
5.    Thread waste yarn and place it along the path of the unknitted yarn for two needles.
6.    Check that all latches are open and crank 10-15 rows.
7.    Remove the sock from the machine.

Turn the sock inside out to Kitchener the toe closed from the purl side.